Traced with equipment rather than found by opening walls, and diagnosed honestly, including when what you have is not a leak at all.
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People ring about leaks with two very different problems, and separating them on the phone saves a visit more often than we would like to admit.
The first is water leaving the system. That shows up as a creeping meter with everything closed, a bill that has climbed with no change in habits, or a stain that has appeared with no obvious source. That one needs equipment and it needs it soon.
The second is pressure, and it usually is not a leak at all. If one outlet is weak and the rest of the house is normal, the water is not going missing, it is being restricted on the way to that fixture. A furred aerator, a worn seat, an isolating valve somebody left half closed, or a corroded length of supply serving only that outlet.
The difference matters because leak detection and a pressure fault are different jobs at different prices. So we ask two questions first: is it one outlet or all of them, and does the meter move with everything off. Sometimes that ends the call with a five dollar part.


Shut the supply off before anything else, then ring. We will stay on the line while you find it.
The single most useful question, and you can answer it in a minute.
One weak outlet with the rest normal is a restriction, not a leak.
That is water genuinely leaving the system on your side.
Still dial means look at the outlet instead of the pipework.
An aerator, a tap seat or a part-closed valve costs almost nothing to put right.
Booking leak detection for one of those is money spent on the wrong job.
Water on a buried external run can disperse without showing at the top.
A bill that climbed without a change in habits is frequently the only sign.
Not in the dark, in the rain, on the night it matters.
Most of what a burst costs happens between the failure and the tap being closed.
Fixed price agreed before anything starts. These are indicative 2026 ranges.
Water stopped and the situation stabilised, at any hour.
Where the symptom turns out to be a restriction rather than a leak.
Acoustic, pressure and thermal, with nothing opened to find it.
Depending on the pipe, the material and how it has to be reached.
What it was, where it was, and what we did about it.

One outlet or all of them, and does the meter creep with everything off. Those answers decide the whole visit.

Acoustic listening, pressure testing and thermal imaging until it is a point rather than an area.

A single access point at the fault, instead of a series of hopeful ones on the way to it.

What it turned out to be, where, and what it took, at the figure agreed before we started.
Shut it off at the meter and ring. A licensed plumber can be heading toward you while you are still on the call.
Call 1300 381 569
Usually not, and this is the most useful distinction on the page. A leak takes water out of the system, so it tends to show at the meter and on the bill rather than as one weak outlet. One outlet losing pressure while the rest are normal is nearly always a restriction at that outlet: an aerator, a tap seat, an isolating valve part-closed, or a corroded section of supply serving only that fixture.
Two checks. First, is it one outlet or all of them. Second, with every tap and appliance off, does the smallest dial on the meter creep. One outlet plus a still meter is a restriction. All outlets, or a creeping meter, and it is worth a proper look.
Because leak detection is a different job from a pressure fault, and paying for the wrong one is a wasted visit. Two minutes of checking on the phone frequently changes what we bring and sometimes ends the conversation with a five dollar fix.
Shut the water off at the meter before anything else, then ring. How much a burst costs is very largely decided by how long the supply stayed on.
It is one of the more common calls we take. A leak on a buried external run can disperse for months without ever showing at the surface, and the bill is the only symptom you get.
Acoustic listening, pressure testing and thermal imaging, chosen to suit what is leaking and where it runs. None of them involve opening a wall to have a look first.
Locating a concealed leak is $250 to $600. A burst repair is $300 to $900. A pressure fault diagnosed and corrected is $150 to $400. Emergency isolation and make-safe is $200 to $450.
Tell us whether it is one outlet or the whole house, and what the meter does with everything off. Those two answers narrow it before anybody arrives.
Diagnosed honestly, located with equipment, and opened once.
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