Cooktops, heaters and gas lines fitted, tested and certified in one visit, plus the redundant points and old connections that turn up when an old house gets opened.
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Renovating an older house turns things up. A capped pipe behind a chimney breast, a point in the skirting where a heater used to sit, a stub in a kitchen wall that predates every appliance anybody living there remembers.
None of that is alarming and none of it is unusual. Appliances arrive and leave over a hundred years, and not every departure was followed by a proper decommissioning. Taking an appliance off a point and making that point safe are two separate jobs, and only one of them always gets done.
Which is why the rule is simple. Do not assume an old connection is dead, and do not open a wall around one on the strength of it looking abandoned. It gets tested.
Making it safe properly is licensed work and it gets certified like anything else. That certificate is what tells the next owner, and the next insurer, that somebody qualified actually dealt with it rather than that it was tidied out of sight.


No switches, no phones indoors. Turn it off at the meter only if you can reach it safely, then ring from outside.
Air the place out and get everybody outside, and do not touch a switch, a fan or a power point while you are doing it.
Shut the gas off at the meter if the meter is somewhere you can get to easily. If it is behind the smell, leave it alone.
Then ring us from outside. A licensed fitter answers, and if the situation warrants the network's emergency crew we will tell you to call them first.
A hundred years of appliances leaves connections behind in walls and skirtings. A house of this age has probably had gas lighting, then a copper, then a wall heater, then a cooktop, and each of those left something.
Finding one during a renovation is completely normal and it does not mean anybody was careless.
What matters is what happens to it once it has been found.
Taking an appliance off is not the same as making the connection safe. An appliance can come away leaving a live point behind it, and the point is the thing that matters.
Decommissioning means capping it properly, testing the line, and certifying the result. That is a defined piece of work rather than tidying up.
It is also quick and inexpensive, which is why there is no good reason to skip it.
Not a job for whoever happens to be on site during a renovation. Gas is licensed work in NSW and there is no small-job exemption for making a point safe.
A builder, a kitchen fitter or a handyman removing an appliance may be entirely competent at their own trade and still not able to lawfully cap the point.
So it is worth asking who is going to do it, before the wall goes back up.
If a renovation is going to cover a gas point with new plasterboard, tiling or cabinetry, deal with it first. Behind a finished wall it is invisible and unreachable.
That is the version of this that causes real problems later, because nobody knows it is there and nothing indicates it.
It takes one short visit at the right point in a build to avoid entirely.
Where one turns up in a house you have owned for years, it is worth dealing with rather than leaving. Most are already dead, and the test is what tells you.
It is a poor reason for its own call-out and a good thing to add to a visit that is happening anyway.
Mention it when you book and it costs you very little.
Adding an appliance is a calculation against total demand rather than a connection. The line has a capacity and so does the meter, and in housing of this age both are frequently modest.
The input rating on the appliance plate is the number the calculation runs on, and a photograph of it is enough to start.
Where the sums do not work, appliances starve each other, and a burner that drops off whenever somebody runs a shower is nearly always this.
While walls are open is the cheapest time anybody will ever have to inspect, test or replace old gas pipework. Afterwards it is a wall to open again.
That is worth thinking about even where nothing is currently wrong, particularly in a house where the gas work spans several eras.
We would rather look at it during the build than be called back to it in five years.
The pipe run and its diameter, the pressure test, the clearances around the appliance, the flue and where it terminates, and the ventilation for the room.
All of it is decided against a specification, and all of it disappears behind a wall or a cupboard on the day.
So when somebody offers to do gas work cheaply and informally, what is being discounted is the part nobody will ever be able to check.
It gets asked for at claim time and at sale, sometimes many years later, and it cannot be recreated afterwards.
Keep it with the property papers rather than in a folder of receipts. It is a document about the building, not a transaction.
That applies to a decommissioning certificate as much as an installation one. Proof a point was made safe is worth as much as proof one was connected.
Fixed price agreed before anything starts. These are indicative 2026 ranges.
Connected, tested and certified in one visit.
Priced on the run rather than by the hour.
Tested, made safe properly, and certified.
With the compliance certificate handed over.
Made safe at any hour, with the cause established afterwards.

What is connected, what you want done, and whether anything unexpected has appeared behind a wall.

Any old connection gets tested rather than assumed dead, before anybody works around it.

Fitted to the Australian Standards, or properly decommissioned and capped where that is what the job needs.

The Certificate of Compliance in your hand before we leave, including for a decommissioning.
Get outside, leave the switches alone, and ring. A licensed gas fitter can be on the way immediately.
Call 1300 381 569
Do not touch it and do not assume it is dead. A point that has had an appliance taken off it may still be live, because removing an appliance and decommissioning a connection are two different jobs, and only one of them is always done. It gets tested rather than guessed at.
Yes. Disconnecting and making safe is gas work, and it belongs to a licensed gas fitter rather than to whoever is on site with a set of spanners. It is also certified like anything else, which is the record that it was done properly.
Because a century of housing means a century of appliances arriving and leaving. Heaters removed, cookers changed, a point left in a wall that was later plastered over. None of it is unusual, and none of it is a reason for alarm. It is a reason to test before anybody opens a wall around it.
Usually, and it is a calculation rather than a yes or no. Everything in the property draws on the same supply, so the answer depends on total demand against what the line and meter can deliver.
Yes, on every gas job, and on the day rather than in the post. Keep it with the property papers, because insurers ask for it after an incident and conveyancers ask for it at sale.
Everyone outside first. No light switches, nothing electrical, no phone used indoors. Turn the supply off at the meter only if you can reach it safely, then ring from outside.
An appliance connection is $200 to $500. A new gas point is $500 to $1,200 depending on the run. Decommissioning and capping a redundant point is $180 to $400. A leak test and certificate is $180 to $350.
Tell us what is connected and what you want done. If a renovation has turned something up, say so, because that gets tested before anything else happens.
Installed or made safe, tested and certified, at the figure agreed first.
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